or

Electric ...

The way how dramatically I miss-guessed the required time for the work on electric was tremendous.  Here just one example for the new automatic cut-out:

First of all I needed a copper-stripes to power 6 of the automatic cut-outs simoultaniously - as long as required like that . To do so I bought cupper connectors for automatic cut-outs of house installations.

The plastic isolation was removed and the hooks cut off.

Afterwards the sharp edges were removed and the pieces reduced to the required length. Due to the heat of the cutting, polishing etc. the parts needed to be cooled down again in water.

Both edges were made smaller and thinner plus a short use of the drilling machine (not done so far on this particular strip) so that flat connectors (typically used in car industry, 6,3 mm) could be pushed on  and wan't fell off again.

Afterwards I drilled holes to connect the stripes with the automatic cut-outs with screws - of course the drills were deburred finally.

After the raisers had been made out of hardwood ...

... and the automatic cut-outs had been mounted on the plastic holders with screws, then together with the wooden raisers had been screwed to the ground and finally all had been wired it finally looked like that:

The normal fuses in the drivers cabine were removed as well. Here I only needed a metal stripe to combine two plastic holders together, the multi-cable-connectors fitted perfectly. And the depth to the rear and top was as well more than sufficient - so against my original worries even easierthan the exchange of the fuses in the cabine.

The automatic cut-outs I have bought from Thomas Hirschberg, he still has more to sell , WHO IS INTERESTED PLEASES CLICK HERE or here for his private website.

A really nice guy gave me some of these muliple sockets with a securing hook which prevents that the plug can fall off accidently - thanks again very much Karl-Heinz (he knows whom I am talking about)!
(It is obsolete to mention that so far never a conventional plug fall off, but now it is PERFECT!)

And because I had several of these multiple sockets it was OK to "canibalize" one for single use, here e. g. to connect the cooking plate. So I integrated one of these sockets into a small - here without the cover.

Yeah, ther rear part of the switch-board was since a long time something which I didn't like.

So first of all I separated the 230V-installation completely from the 12V- and 24V-system. The patching is installed in a separate box.

Thats how it looks when I had finisched the wiring and applied protection tubes.

And here with cover!

The 12V & 24V-installation was combined on several plugs and sockets for flat connectors 6,3 mm.

Because of the huge amount of wires I had to use ~15 plugs and sockets which I didn't ike in case of service - too many to dis- and re-connect, even if it is a service board which I will open only very rarely and only in case of service or when I want to add anything!!

So finally I changed everything again and have refitted everything on a special 9-pin socket for 230V, 1x 16-pin-socket, 1x 16-pin plug, 1x 37-pin socket plus one remaining 6-pole socket for 6,3 mm flat connectors (no other choice because of the 2,5mm² cables for switching on / off the water pumps).

Thanks to Mark for organizing the special-coloured and fine-wired cables!

The rear side of the switch board:

The Eberspächer airheating didn't work as expected and so I had to apply an additional temperature sensor. Without these sensors the fan is permantly on so that the sensor integrated in the air heating can recognize more or less accurate the temperature of the room. The sensors were integrated for boht air heatings.

Last but not least I have finished the installation for the 24V generator:

This was the status so far.

The remaining problem was the exhaust. The exhaust of the generator is next to the "in"-cover and the first idea to push out with a third van the exhausts would have failed sooner or later because the dust and dirt of the exhausts would have damaged the van quite quickly.
So I built an electric waste water valve in front of the exhaust. So I was able to operate without an additional van because it is now a straight flow of the exhausts.
The electric valve needs ~ 5 sec. power to run open and the same time but reversed connection of "+" & "-" to close.
This would have required an additional switch in the control board (which would have 1. ment to use an additional wire was and 2. I wouldn't have liked long time because I prefer simple handling - even if this means that the workload to achieve that goes into extrems) and so I built in two special relays. The first gives once I have switched the above to "on" for 5 sec. power (passing make-contact). The second switches for 5 sec. to "on" once the above switch is turned to "off" (passing break-contact). Both 5 sec. power impulses go to 4 more relays to change the polarity (the first two to give "+" and "-" to the valve to open, the next two to give "-" and "+" to the valve to close).

Thanks as well to Mr. Streubel from company Streubel Automation resepctively Pneumatikwelt.de for his quick, friendly and friendly support to me and this project. He is my supplier for the pneumatic cylinders etc..

Definitely NO thanks to Conrad respectively their bullsh... forwarding agent Hermes, who delayed the shipment of elektric parts to 1 WEEK!!
Note: The last shipments arrived well in time due to Deutsche Post - much better now!

The final test will be next Thursday when I will join the ralley "Dresden-Breslau" - another update to follow.